A closer look at the most debated and controversial moments involving Vivienne Westwood.
Dame Vivienne Isabel Westwood (1941-2022) was a highly influential English fashion designer and businesswoman. She is credited with introducing modern punk and new wave aesthetics into mainstream fashion. Her designs often incorporated political and social commentary, solidifying her status as a cultural icon and activist. In 2022, she was recognized as one of the most influential artists in Britain of the past half-century.
In 1974, Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren re-modelled their boutique and re-opened it as 'Sex'. The pieces sold in Sex were provocative and challenging, with designs based on fetish and sado-masochism, intending to provoke the middle class and inspire political action among young punks. Garments included rubber skirts and dresses, as well as t-shirts with pornographic material printed on them.
In Autumn-Winter 1987/88, Vivienne Westwood showcased the 'Harris Tweed' collection, establishing a relationship with Harris tweed and the Harris Tweed Authority. The collection is credited with reviving the fabric's use in fashion. The use of the Orb logo sparked controversy due to its similarity to the Harris Tweed Authority's mark.
In April 1989, Vivienne Westwood appeared on the cover of Tatler magazine dressed as then Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher, wearing a suit that was originally ordered for Thatcher. The cover was later recognized as one of the best UK magazine covers.
In 2002, Latimo, an offshore company, was set up. Vivienne Westwood was the majority shareholder.
In 2002, Vivienne Westwood's UK business sold the rights to her trademarks to Luxembourg-based Latimo, controlled by her, for £840,000.
In 2009, Vivienne Westwood's company underestimated the value of her brand, leading to tax issues with HM Revenue and Customs (HMRC).
In August 2011, Vivienne Westwood Ltd agreed to pay £350,000 in tax, plus interest of £144,112 due in 2009, to HM Revenue and Customs (HMRC) for underestimating the value of her brand. HMRC argued that the brand had been undervalued during a 2002 deal.
Since 2011, Vivienne Westwood Ltd had continued to pay £2 million a year to offshore company Latimo for the right to use Westwood's name on her own fashion label.
In 2013, Eluxe Magazine accused Vivienne Westwood of using the green movement as a marketing tool, noting that some of her fashion lines are made in China using materials derived from harmful chemicals. Eluxe also criticized Westwood's production volume and the treatment of unpaid interns.
In February 2015, Vivienne Westwood was excluded from appearing on the Green Party's 'We Are The Revolution' campaigning tour due to concerns about her tax affairs, which conflicted with party policy.
In July 2020, Vivienne Westwood protested outside London's Old Bailey court against Julian Assange's possible extradition to the United States, wearing a yellow pantsuit and suspending herself in a giant birdcage.
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